Penne is a small village on the circuit of the medieval bastides around Albi, in south-west France. In the neighborhood of Agen – also in the South-West - exists another village named “Penne”: this could leasily lead to confusion. The ruins of the castle of Penne de l'Albigeois on top of a rock dominates the river Aveyron: it was a real eagle's nest.
The castle was built during 12th century, in time to play a prominent role in the crusade against the Cathars. According to the “chanson de la croisade”, Bernard de Penne remained faithful to the count of Toulouse. Simon de Montfort, chief of the crusade, started the siege of Penne in 1212; he had pre-arranged a joint action with his brother. However, his brother besieged Penne … d'Agenais; since both troops were too small for their targets, the siege of Penne d'Agenais was broken up and Simon joined his brother. However, in 1223 de Montfort took the castle; six years later the count of Toulouse re-conquered Penne.
During the Hundred Years War, English troops took Penne and occupied the castle for 30 years. During the Religion Wars, the Huguenots dismantled the castle; the stones were re-used to restore the village.
Today, one can't come near the ruins of the castle, the rock is too dangerous. The new owner however has started some works, and who knows, in future the site might be open to visit. Check this web site: Chateau de Penne
Actually, the medieval structure of the village remains, but the population of Penne has dramatically dropped, from 2000 early 20th century to a mere 500, of whom only 95 live in the center. Penne is a nice place for a break during your trip on the circuit of the bastides around Albi, or the Aveyron Canyon (gorges de l'Aveyron). The sights are marvelous, there is a nice café with a terrace, an ideal stop for cyclists or hikers. There are a few signposted footpaths around Penne, with nice views on the Aveyron. The Long Distance Footpath 46 (Grande Randonnée or GR) and a Regional Footpath (Grande Randonnée de Pays or GRP) pass trough Penne. The Grésigne Forest, with 3 500 ha the largest oak forest in southern France is within walking distance of Penne.
If you would like to discover Penne, the bastides albigeoises, the Aveyron Canyon or the Grésigne Forest, you might check Bed and Breakfast Artichaud, a charming and ecological guest house, with great food.
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Text & pictures:© Bed and Breakfast Artichaud
